In my five days jaunt I was amazed by what I found. First, Patagonia! My friend suggested going there and I thought she may have made a mistake! But Patagonia exists, right there in the heart of this wonderful corner of Apacheria. This is the place to go if you are interested in the history of this great Native tribe. And sadly it is also the place where the legendary Chiricahua leader Geronimo
finally surrendered in 1886 at Skeleton Canyon (sic!).
The small village of Patagonia is a green oasis and artist's hamlet with lovely accommodation and restaurants.
Nearby the Nature Conservancy offers hummingbirds and numerous birds species a safe area that can be easily accessed by birds fans.
The variety of landscapes is amazing! Empty desert grasslands, ranching pastures, rocky terrains and huge boulders where Cochise Stronghold is located, the 9,453 feet high Mount Wrightson (great hikes!) and the beautiful Chiricahua Mountains, wineries (man-made!)...and the list goes on.
If you are a history nerd this is your place. Apache Wars, Buffalo Soldiers, the historic Gadsden Hotel named after the famous Purchase and the proud owner of an authentic Tiffany stained glass mural, the Apache war chief who-never-surrendered Cochise who gives the name to the region-Cochise County, the first Spanish expedition led by Coronado in 1540, military forts, traces of Paleo Indians times.
A jewel not to be missed is the Amerind Foundation, the "anthropological and archaeological museum and research center dedicated to the preservation and interpretation of Native American cultures and their histories". It houses one of the finest private collections of Native American art and artifacts in the country. In the middle of nowhere!
I remember wandering in the Dragoon Mountains after visiting the museum, gorgeous, trying to find my bearings. My friend left earlier and I was traveling on my own feeling very adventurous. The road took me to an intersection, a perfect cross with nothing in sight. Then BANG.. I suddenly focused on a small coffee place, on the south-east corner! The guy who welcomed me, a surprisingly loquacious Apache, brewed me a fresh coffee and kept me there for over two hours with fascinating stories. This kind of unexpected things is what makes road trips the most enjoyable way to travel!
Did I forget something? No doubt. But this is just a quick overview of an area that I want to share with you. It is perfect for a long weekend. I recommend it to everyone as there is something for every taste and interest. Lots of wonderful guest ranches to stay at too. Unfortunately the one I stayed at was lost to the dramatic fires that happened last year. I will never forget it.
I'm sure you would like to ask me why I don't mention Tombstone and Bisbee. Simply because they are so famous that you know about them! Both towns are in this area and worth a stop. Today Tombstone is very Hollywood-esque but Bisbee is quite enchanting.
Tip: don't be tempted to set foot on nearby Mexican land, kind of dangerous these days.
Chirp...chirp... |
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